Sunday, 16 June 2013

Kumai and Orangutan Haven!

Our journey to Kumai, Kalimantan takes us 24 hours.  We decide on 2 hour shifts as we are hit by a 5 hour storm with 37 knots, 2-3 metre short choppy seas and torrential rain.  We are again water-logged and feeling a bit low due to tiredness.  Dinner is a can of baked beans and lunch is a vegemite sandwich - we can't be bothered to do much else.

We arrive the next day ar Kumai River and anchor opposite the port.  The water is muddy brown and has salt-water crocs although we can't see them.  We hire a boat boy to stay on the deck for the next 5 days.  They are their to protect the boat from floating logs and of course for security.

Heather and Graeme decide to stay at the Rimba Eco Lodge for 2 nights and take a one day clotock tour of the orangutans.  They then plan to fly to Solo in Java and journey to Semerang before flying back to meet Steel for the next adventure.


Clotoch Boats - like a caravan on the river



The oranguatan which pee'ed on Graeme
Pitcher plants - carnivorous
Brian and Lyn are so looking forward to Monique arriving before they embark on their 3 night/4 day clotok (river boat) cruise to visit the orangutans.  I can't wait to hear all about their journey.

Barwean - rain,rain,rain,rain........

Another overnight journey sees us arrive at Barwean, a large and prosperous island.  It’s a great anchorage and we are joined by fellow yachties from Boomerang and Sutemon.  Our evening with Rod, Jen, Duncan, Jane and Tony is raucous to say the least.
Happy hour with fellow yachties
Many of the houses are beautiful and quite wealthy compared to other islands.
Not quite finished

Launching a recently anti-fouled fishing boat by hand!

A village water fountain - each home is assigned a water pipe. 
The women fill their buckets with their water.

Local house
Graeme finds a local warung and we eat there for 3 lunches.  There is no menu - just the special of the day - chicken and noodle soup, nasi goreng etc.  Each meal is about $1 depending on the day.
Graeme's favourite warung


We borrow/hire 3 motor bikes from our warung owners and decide to tour the island for $10 each bike for the afternoon.  Who's idea was this?  It starts to rain and doesn't stop for 5 hours.  Our trip takes us 42km in torrential rain through villages, mud, towns, mud, the main port, mud, up mountains, mud, roadworks, mud, mud, mud.  We are drenched, cold and stiff from riding.  We are a spectacle.  The villagers haven't seen many whities - they think we are completely stupid for riding in the rain!
Rain, mud, rain, mud

Bizarre - abandoned carnival ride in a paddock. 
The kids take turns in pushing it around.
We befriend 3 local teenage boys aged 10-15 who swim out to our boat one afternoon.  We give them swimming goggles and a soft drink.  Brian runs them back into shore on the dinghy at full speed and they are thrilled by the ride.  Sadly we later discover they re-visit our boat whilst we are out at night and steal Graeme and Brian's iphones.  They also take the flares from the dinghy.  Its a shame because so far everyone has been very friendly and trustworthy.  We will lock the boat from now on.

Mesalembu

Again we travel overnight and arrive at this very small island.  We are greeted by very friendly locals and Brian befriends a local man.  We visit his home in a tiny village of 15 houses, chooks, goats, cows etc.  Each house is raised on stilts and we wash our feet at the bottom of the stairs before entering.  News travels fast and we are quickly visited by many children and women.  They laugh and giggle at us. 
We leave the dinghy at the village beach

Our hosts in their loungeroom

Coconut shell bike seat - luv it!

On the front verandah. The women change into their best clothes and some put lipstick on to sit and stare and giggle at us.  Our clothes are a bit grubby and sweaty – a bit embarrassing really!

Heather with the kids and mums
We give the children pencils and Heather draws a mud map explain our journey from Australia.  They are bright-eyed and we suspect some of the children haven’t seen white people before.  Mothers send their children off for an outdoor wash from their well and clean clothes.  

The island has completely run out of petrol – they hope to get a delivery in 10 days.  Brian is accosted by the local harbourmaster with an empty petrol can – petrol is worth more than cash it seems.  We give our family 5 litres of petrol and borrow their motor bikes so we can head into town about 5km away.  It’s a 30 minute ride with our family entourage through muddy tracks, puddles and rocky, bumpy roads.  The family escort us to the local market. 

Fish from the local market - small tuna we think?
We eat breakfast with our family at a warung.  There is one item on the menu - fish soup with fried tofu and a boiled egg.  It is seasoned with chilli and kecap manis.  We also pay for our friends – each meal is AU$1.00 including a drink of water. 

Kangean


We depart Lovina Beach after dinner at 10pm and sail/motor overnight so we can arrive at Kangean in daylight.  Our nighttime voyages are a minefield of fishing boats, commercial ships, torrential rain, strong winds, thunder, lightning, no wind – you name it – we get it! 
Tug towing a coal-laden barge - tricky to see at night
We decide to do 3 hour watches on our overnight trip.  It is safer to navigate into anchorages in daylight so we can see the reefs, fishing boats, fishing nets, bombies, and of course the water depth.  Our charts don’t always match up with realty so we are cautious as it can be a bit tricky. 
Motoring in a millpond

First sight of Kangean

Fishing boat at Kangean

Our fishing is dismal.  We have rods and lures however we are better sailors than we are fishermen.  We buy export quality coral trout from a local fish farm, green beans and pumpkin from the local village and toast Heather’s actual 50th birthday with a bottle of Moet courtesy of Sam and Josh – thanks boys! 

A hint for our non-fishing husbands!
Fish Depot

Weighing our fish
Coral Trout - we think!


50th birthday dinner - awesome :-)
We borrow motor bikes from the locals and are taken on a tour of the local school, police station, lunch at a warung and coffee in an indescribable hut. 

Local coffee shop for my 50th birthday :-)
Our barista
The police station is the only place on the island where we can see a map.  It is painted on their wall so we are able to explain where we are from and where we are going – I think!  We must all sign a book at the police station – they love official stuff and paperwork.  There are no other white people on the island and we are a novelty.  The villagers are very friendly and love to have their photo taken with us.  They take loads of photos of us using their mobile phones and I suspect we are probably on many facebook pages.
Local school

Local Police Station

Bike Maintenance

Putting air in tyres


Warung owner and her daughters
New use for satellite dish
We are often visited at our yacht by local fishermen and children.  They sometimes want to sell us things however usually they are curious and want to say hello.  The kids swim out to us and are thrilled to get gifts of soft drink or swimming goggles.  We can sometimes organize diesel and petrol for our gerry cans via our visitors.  We were also offered a live monkey in a cardboard box with a plastic bag around the outside.  We’re not sure if he was trying to sell/show/give us the monkey – mmmm.
Local fuel station
Provisioning is becoming more difficult.  It is easy to buy some veges and fruit – green beans, tomatoes, cucumber, garlic, bananas, pineapple, passionfruit.  Fish can be bought on the pavement at the local market for $2 for 6 small fish.  We haven’t seen any meat or chicken yet.  The village markets are very cheap and a fun experience.  Just point at the produce and hold up 3 fingers to buy 3 cucumbers!  We also buy some cooked food – no idea what it is but it tastes good.  Nothing is refrigerated and there are loads of flies.  Bread, when we can get it, is white and very sweet.  Ice is always a mission.  Luckily we can sometimes buy it from a shop or local people give us ice from their freezer if they have a freezer!
This family gave us all the ice from their freezer - enough to fill our esky. 
They wouldn't accept payment however we were able to give the kids some balloons.

Lovina Beach, Bali


Our next destination is Lovina Beach, Bali.  We arrive at night in the pouring rain and are very happy to have a local man, Abdul, meet us in his fishing boat. Brian keeps calling him Andrew!  Abdul organizes to bring us gerry cans of diesel and petrol and he also gives us a huge watermelon as a gift.  We are happy that the fuel is clean as we have heard that a number of boats bought dirty fuel at Benoa.
Sunset at Lovina Beach
We check into a great local hotel with a small swimming pool for a couple of nights at AU$30 per night.  We orgainse our laundry and enjoy the banter with the local street sellers.  Lovina Beach is a small town with some great restaurants and warungs.  It’s also the last time we can buy bintang and wine – sad face.  We re-provision at a large supermarket which actually sells cheese – luxury!
Villager's front garden

The Local River

Tourist Accommodation

Local school

ATM

Local Warung

We spend a few hours in Singaraja looking for a genset and air conditioner.  We are able to find both however it’s tricky to match the KVA with the air con unit so a failed mission.
Our bunks are very hot and it not easy to sleep.  We decide to make ‘air scoops’ for the cabin windows.  Brian is able to find a cabinet maker to buy some plywood and have it cut to shape.  The guys create these masterpieces and attach them with shock cord.  The air circulation improves but it is still very hot – c’est la vie!

Making Air Scoops
About 10km from Lovina are some hot springs where locals and tourists alike can bathe and enjoy water massage – just what we need – to get hotter!
 
Hot Mineral Springs