Sunday, 16 June 2013

Kangean


We depart Lovina Beach after dinner at 10pm and sail/motor overnight so we can arrive at Kangean in daylight.  Our nighttime voyages are a minefield of fishing boats, commercial ships, torrential rain, strong winds, thunder, lightning, no wind – you name it – we get it! 
Tug towing a coal-laden barge - tricky to see at night
We decide to do 3 hour watches on our overnight trip.  It is safer to navigate into anchorages in daylight so we can see the reefs, fishing boats, fishing nets, bombies, and of course the water depth.  Our charts don’t always match up with realty so we are cautious as it can be a bit tricky. 
Motoring in a millpond

First sight of Kangean

Fishing boat at Kangean

Our fishing is dismal.  We have rods and lures however we are better sailors than we are fishermen.  We buy export quality coral trout from a local fish farm, green beans and pumpkin from the local village and toast Heather’s actual 50th birthday with a bottle of Moet courtesy of Sam and Josh – thanks boys! 

A hint for our non-fishing husbands!
Fish Depot

Weighing our fish
Coral Trout - we think!


50th birthday dinner - awesome :-)
We borrow motor bikes from the locals and are taken on a tour of the local school, police station, lunch at a warung and coffee in an indescribable hut. 

Local coffee shop for my 50th birthday :-)
Our barista
The police station is the only place on the island where we can see a map.  It is painted on their wall so we are able to explain where we are from and where we are going – I think!  We must all sign a book at the police station – they love official stuff and paperwork.  There are no other white people on the island and we are a novelty.  The villagers are very friendly and love to have their photo taken with us.  They take loads of photos of us using their mobile phones and I suspect we are probably on many facebook pages.
Local school

Local Police Station

Bike Maintenance

Putting air in tyres


Warung owner and her daughters
New use for satellite dish
We are often visited at our yacht by local fishermen and children.  They sometimes want to sell us things however usually they are curious and want to say hello.  The kids swim out to us and are thrilled to get gifts of soft drink or swimming goggles.  We can sometimes organize diesel and petrol for our gerry cans via our visitors.  We were also offered a live monkey in a cardboard box with a plastic bag around the outside.  We’re not sure if he was trying to sell/show/give us the monkey – mmmm.
Local fuel station
Provisioning is becoming more difficult.  It is easy to buy some veges and fruit – green beans, tomatoes, cucumber, garlic, bananas, pineapple, passionfruit.  Fish can be bought on the pavement at the local market for $2 for 6 small fish.  We haven’t seen any meat or chicken yet.  The village markets are very cheap and a fun experience.  Just point at the produce and hold up 3 fingers to buy 3 cucumbers!  We also buy some cooked food – no idea what it is but it tastes good.  Nothing is refrigerated and there are loads of flies.  Bread, when we can get it, is white and very sweet.  Ice is always a mission.  Luckily we can sometimes buy it from a shop or local people give us ice from their freezer if they have a freezer!
This family gave us all the ice from their freezer - enough to fill our esky. 
They wouldn't accept payment however we were able to give the kids some balloons.

Lovina Beach, Bali


Our next destination is Lovina Beach, Bali.  We arrive at night in the pouring rain and are very happy to have a local man, Abdul, meet us in his fishing boat. Brian keeps calling him Andrew!  Abdul organizes to bring us gerry cans of diesel and petrol and he also gives us a huge watermelon as a gift.  We are happy that the fuel is clean as we have heard that a number of boats bought dirty fuel at Benoa.
Sunset at Lovina Beach
We check into a great local hotel with a small swimming pool for a couple of nights at AU$30 per night.  We orgainse our laundry and enjoy the banter with the local street sellers.  Lovina Beach is a small town with some great restaurants and warungs.  It’s also the last time we can buy bintang and wine – sad face.  We re-provision at a large supermarket which actually sells cheese – luxury!
Villager's front garden

The Local River

Tourist Accommodation

Local school

ATM

Local Warung

We spend a few hours in Singaraja looking for a genset and air conditioner.  We are able to find both however it’s tricky to match the KVA with the air con unit so a failed mission.
Our bunks are very hot and it not easy to sleep.  We decide to make ‘air scoops’ for the cabin windows.  Brian is able to find a cabinet maker to buy some plywood and have it cut to shape.  The guys create these masterpieces and attach them with shock cord.  The air circulation improves but it is still very hot – c’est la vie!

Making Air Scoops
About 10km from Lovina are some hot springs where locals and tourists alike can bathe and enjoy water massage – just what we need – to get hotter!
 
Hot Mineral Springs

Leaving Gili Air

Sadly, after 6 days it is time to leave Gili Air.
Local Ferry

The fridge section at the mini mart

Dried Fish and Veges and of course ... flies

Dried Fish - and of course ... flies

No cars on the island - local taxi

Taxi Rank

Wednesday, 29 May 2013

Gili Air and Gili Trawongan

We seem to have adapted to our new life of cruising.  We fill our days with snorkeling, SUPing, eating, swimming and relaxing. We have met some fun, fellow minded yachties and take turns for drinks at each others boats.  Mush of the conversation revolves around sailing experiences, travel tales, galley comparisons, water makers discussions and air-conditioner envy.




mmmm....

The village at Gili Air is quiet and traditional.  The people are very friendly and relaxed.  Our local supermarket sells food, clothing, hardware,electrical goods. Photos say it all - don't you think!
On the way to the village



Traffic Lights for the horses and carts

Seriously!

Blue plastic chook moneybox or tube of sikaflex

Decisions, decisions

One of these things is not like the other ...

Daggy hat day


Heather had a dive with some fellow yachties from 'Pamplemousse'.  We drift dive in 23m off Gili Trawongan.  Visibility is excellent with loads of bright tropical fish, turtles, octopus, sea snakes, bump fish - alas so sharks today.

Sunday, 26 May 2013

Gili Air

What and excellent place to be.  The anchorage is protected and deep.  Every day a little old man rows to the boat and hands us a flyer in a plastic bottle.  It informs us that they would like us to use their moorings rather than anchor and risk destroying their coral.  The parking fee is AU$5 per day - bargain!

The island has no cars or motor bikes.  Everyone uses foot, bicycles or horse and cart.  The roads are all sand tracks and there is a relaxed vibe.  There are loads of tourists as it is a diving/snorkeling dream.  The cafes have lounges and futons on the beach and everyone is friendly. We walk the perimeter of the island in 1.5 hours.

Gili Air

All good :-)
Spiders the size of my hand - eeew

Boat building

Senggigi, Lombok

There's not much wind so after a long day of motoring, we anchor at Sengiggi and we are the only yacht in the bay.  It has a dark sandy beach with over 200 brightly painted fishing boats on the beach.  The boats head out to fish every night and in the morning there are loads of baskets of fresh fish and much activity with repairing of nets and other boat maintenance.
Fishing boats with their catch
Senggigi from the boat
Steel De Breeze from the top of the hill
We stay 2 nights and enjoy the second night at The Sheraton - doing it tough again :-)  Graeme and I stayed here 20 years ago when the Fremantle to Lombok Race finished at Senggigi in 1993.  Its great to have long showers, a lazy day by the pool and of course re-provision with ice and fruit.


Dusk at the Sheraton
We feel clean and refreshed as we leave the beach with bags of clean laundry only to get caught is torrential rain.

We see something in the water and think it may be a headless chook.  On further inspection Graeme announces that the good news is it is not a chook :-)  The bad news is its a used nappy- eeew.

We board the boat, drenched, to find that our anchor is wound around steel and concrete 20m below - sad face.  We hire a young french diver to free the anchor chain and are on our way - happy face.